
Many manufacturers of MTB bars on the market will tell you some things in the advertising/website. Often reported are numbers like width (length), rise (length), sweep (angle), and up-sweep (angle).
Without getting into my disdain for up sweep (excessively), I want to discuss the un-reported data a bit.
Let's say you want to try a new handlebar on your bike. You are a performance enthusiast, and you want to try something different, but you don't want to change more than one variable if possible. As a performance guy, you want to change only one thing and see what it does for you...let's say you simply want to change the angle of your wrist by changing the "sweep" of your bars without changing the reach.
Suffice to say, this is not a "simple" geometry problem considering that you do not know where the sweep angles occur in the bar. Think about it, does the up sweep and back sweep occur at the same bend? If it did, it would be only one bend, and therefore giving two separate angles would be un-necessary. May be this is starting to sound like a rant...
Furthermore, can we calculate anything from any of these numbers? Before we get wrapped around the bar with risers, lets simplify with a flat bar that has only backward sweep....as long as you install it that way.
Lets take a very simple example. A 600 mm flat bar that has a simple 10 degree sweep. How many mm behind the stem clamp might I expect my hands to be when I grasp the bar near it's ends? Once again, this question can not be answered with the information typically given by the manufacturer.
Think about this...a guy that has a simple flat bar with 3 degrees sweep wants to try a simple flat bar with 10 degrees of sweep, but also wants to fit on his bike...so the stem length should change too...but how much? Is this a conspiracy?
Let me go back a bit for those I may have lost along the way...A Jones Bar has 45 whopping degrees of sweep, but the sweep angle apex is VERY close to the hands (and far from the stem clamp). This results in the hands not really being very far behind the stem clamp.....Now contrast this with the Salsa MotoAce flat bar with only 11 degrees of sweep. On the Salsa the sweep angle apex is much closer to the stem clamp, but the sweep is roughly a quarter of the Jones Bar...so which bar needs the longer stem? Probably the Salsa!
Now if I have not confused you enough, lets toss in another angle...Up sweep (we are finally going back to those riser bars I talked about earlier). No manufacturer I have researched reports where the apex of this angle is relative to the stem clamp...or the apex of the back sweep for that matter. Many people who (like me) do not like up sweep, have found that by rotating the bars back in the stem clamp, they can reduce and usually eliminate the up sweep by rotating it into back sweep. Anyone want to try and guess what the resulting back sweep is without knowing the relation of the angles?
Man, I would love to believe that someone is actually reading this! I would really love to believe that someday this data will be available on manufacturers websites!
You should care too! If you have not already made the change to over sized stems and bars, you will in the not-too-distant future. The 25.4 mm stem clamp size will not be around forever! Many bars are only available in OS (a.k.a. 31.8 mm stem clamp size). Some of us want to make the switch to OS without buying a lot of stems that won't be used after the first week!
In retrospect, this does look a lot like a rant...see, I am building this new bike, and I want to make sure things are peachy (or at least close) for my first ride. I have learned a few things regarding bars along the way, so I thought I would share.
One other thing I want to share...Jason at Salsa Cycles is the man! He not only answered my questions, we talked for about 30 minutes about this and that. He is a great guy with a great job at a great company!
too friggin compllicated
could not agree with you more unless i could understand what ur talking about. ok seriously the whole thing about bars and rise and sweep is just some tech mumbo jumbo to make it sound like ur buying something as advanced as the metal alloy or cf it is made from. u still will have to try and try and try to get it to fit you right. either that or u will need to adjust to the new position. u would be surprised, or not, that is what happens about 90 percent of the time.
sorry...
All I am saying is...If you change sweep or rise (and you probably will if you change bars), you are almost certainly changing your reach in a somewhat unpredictable manner.
If you like the change in performance, great. I suspect that too often people buy a bar for some reason other than its dimensions and then live with the change in performance rather than address it. What I see happening about 90% of the time is people riding on bikes that do not fit well...and they have no understanding of the performance they are not realizing. The body will adapt most of the time, but why force an adaptation to a bad fit?
Much Agreed
What this man speaks is the truth. So much of the riders I see riding around have what looks like shit posture and riding positions. Now dont get me wrong, I'm not one to say I'm doing it perfectly. Actually, Ebby, the lbs owner in Sedalia, just went to Chicago to take a hands on education schooling on bike fit and performance. Sounds like he has some interesting thoughts and ideas and I will def. be paying him this summer to tweak my posture.
So much of cycling is being able to feel comfortable on the steed your riding. Whether it's the road, mountain, or katy trail, if your bike doesnt fit right, your not going to get the best out of it. And the handlebars are such a huge part of your connection with the bike. I know from past bar switches and stem changeovers that it makes a big difference on your not only your performance but also your "comfortabilty" factor. Good luck getting the right combo on this new beauty of yours Unit. You know what you want and you know enough about this shit to know what and what not to buy.
Oh and also, sorry to rant again, but the postion of the bars and length and rise of stem can have a vast impact on your back. I had back problems sort of like Two Old's and once I fixed my postitioning on my bikes, it was much easier to ride for extended periods. Two Old, you've had some experience with postitioning havent you?
That I have
Plenty of experience. I've learned a lot about fit - my own fit, that is.
I do think a lot of what I've learned and figured out on my own applies in the more general sense. Mostly it's about balance. Front to back and side to side. But also where your center of gravity is relative to the bike.
It's hard to disagree with the original comment though. Unit and I had this conversation the other day. Your average cyclist doesn't have the time or want to take the effort to figure out the math behind the angles and distances manufacturers spec in their product literature (if there even is literature at all). I'm not convinced it's a worthwhile pursuit even, because I'm not convinced the specifications are all that accurate. Who checks?
Bottom line, it's a trial and error process that, like it or not, is accepted practice. If you're smart you won't stop trying for an optimum fit until you have it. Giving up on the process too soon risks reduced performance and possibly injury.
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