Two Wheel Blogs

I set out from St. Girons with no idea what to expect. I have learned that the green-highlighted highways on the Michelin maps (scenic roads) won't disappoint me and today was no exception. I took the road to St. Croix Volvestre and it was the totally-unexpected highlight of the whole trip. If I were to recommend a trip to someone interested in biking but not touring, I would recommend heading for a base in St. Girons. It is the center of a wheel, with beautiful rides like spokes heading out in every direction.

Today I climbed for a while out of town and then snaked my way through gorgeous farm country to St. Croix. From there, I climbed again to the top of a ridge where the road was lined with enormous arching shade trees (sycamores?) and the views in each direction were positively stunning. Chateauxs, terraced farm fields, stone houses, the Pyrenees in the distance, and flowers everywhere I looked. The road descended and I had the best lunch of the trip in Rieux de Volvestre. A toasted baguette with melted brie, salad with vinaigrette, apple, tomato, raisans and walnuts. Seated outside with a breeze and shade... The waitress even asked if she could fill my water bottles and store them in the cooler until I was finished eating and sipping tea. A delight!

In my quest for a back road into the city, I avoided the A64 and crossed over to Muret. For many miles, it was beautiful farm country with irrigation sprinklers delightfully blowing spray over the road now and then. I skinny dipped at a creek crossing and briefly worried that I wouldn't be able to climb back out to the road. Necessity is the mother of invention! I got a few burrs and nettles in my bike shorts, but I made it out. It was worth the cool that I felt for the next 30 minutes or so.

The closer in I got, as expected, the road toward Tolouse became hot and busy, with no lane for me. I picked up the pace, rode hard and was incredibly sweaty and relieved when it ended at the train station. 117 k today. There was a fruit stand across the tracks and I got great pleasure from an orange, 2 dried pears, and cherry tomatoes still on the vine.

The train to Bordeaux left shortly with a whole car dedicated just for bicyclists - complete with a hanging rack. Considering that I just blindly picked this entire route on a map, I have been dogged the whole way by the persistent realization that I am being led by the invisible hand of something - god or goddess or a guardian angel. It is a sensation that has defined my whole life, and I am grateful every day.

I landed at a low budg hotel near the train station in Bordeaux. Almost too smooth for comfort! I keep waiting for some ax to fall. I am feeling bled dry financially, so I guess it is time for a wedding! I think I will be hungry and thirsty for days. I look forward to justifying the 3 fancy dresses and pair of red high-heeled shoes in my panniers. They sure seemed like dead weight climbing the passes.

Sadly, the bicycle part of my tour is done. Maybe when I get home I can coax my sweetheart out for another tour of the 'Hell Loop' - Silverton to Durango to Telluride to Ouray and home. The last time, we did it on a tandem. I won't subject him to that now, hauling my ass around at 12,000 feet. But it would sure be nice to have his company. And one day, Nathaniel and Will might discover the joys of testing themselves against the road and come along too.

Smiling still!